![]() The viscosity would stabilize in 24 hours. Add sensitive ingredients, adjust pH and add the preservative. Continue stirring as the emulsion cools down. Homogenize the pre-emulsion for 1-2 minutes. As Olivem is melted and both phases have almost the same temperature, add the oil phase to the water phase while stirring. If you're heating oil and water phase separately, add the Olivem into one of the phases and heat both phases. At temperatures around 30 C add sensitive ingredients, adjust the pH and add the preservative. Homogenize for 1-2 minutes and continue stirring as the emulsion cools down. A gel like structure appears which turns into a pre-emulsion by further stirring. If you're using one pot method, start stirring the blend after Olivem is melted. Heat the other phase to the same temperature. You can apply Olivem 1000 in cleansing emulsions together with nonionic surfactants such as alkylpolyglucosides.Īpplication: Heat Olivem 1000 in the oil phase, in the water phase or in a blend of oil and water phase to ca. Usually the application dosage is about 18-20% of oil phase. The viscosity of the emulsions could be adjusted by varying the Olivem and the gum concentration. Olivem 1000 leads to very stable emulsions and if you're a beginner in formulation and emulsion making or if you don't feel comfortable with your emulsions yet, this would be our first recommendation for you. You can add the Olivem to the oil phase, to the water phase or run a "one pot" method where you weight and heat both the oil and water phase in the same beaker/vessel. This "soapiness" could be improved by applying 0.5-1% of a fatty alcohol such as cetyl or cetearyl alcohol or by modifying the applied gum. The only drawback of Olivem 1000 is leaving a soap like effect over the skin immediately after application. ![]() The emulsions and creams have a very nice skin feel owing to the liquid structure of the emulsions. It could be applied over a broad range of oil phase concentration from zero percent oil concentration to 45% oil in an emulsion. This is a very forgiving emulsifier applicable for a broad range of pH. Olivem 1000 is a multifunctional and versatile natural O/W emulsifier based on olive oil esters. INCI: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivat The result is a very light gel-emulsion, containing a high amount of water, suitable. It's worth a try, especially if you are after Vitamin C's skin-brightening effects.This is a Mass Balance product (RSPO palm) a new O/W emulsifier derived from olive oil. Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a very promising but not a fully proven Vitamin C derivative. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. The strong point of EAC though is skin brightening. EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. For this sample we decided add 5 berry wax to the blend while lowering the oil concentration to 10 and keeping the mango butter and emulsifier the same. Regarding conversion, we can cite only a manufacturers claim saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives).Īs for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly have only the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. Sample 5: 10 oil, 15 butter, 5 wax and 5 Montanov 202. ![]() ![]() We have good news regarding the absorption: on top of manufacturer claims, there is some data (animal study) demonstrating in can get into the skin, and it seems to be better at it than Ascorbyl Glucoside, another vitamin C derivative. However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work it's not enough just to be stable, they also have to be absorbed into the skin and be converted there to pure Vitamin C. Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
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